Arya Sumba Kodi: A Rawer, Remoter Side of Indonesia
Arriving in West Sumba
Sumba - one of rawest islands in Indonesia. The flight from Bali takes just under an hour. Wings Air, quiet and unremarkable, touching down at Tambloaka airport in West Sumba with a thud that feels like punctuation. One island to another. Easy. But if you are travelling to Arya Sumba Kodi — one of the most remote boutique resorts in Indonesia — the drive that follows is where the real journey begins.
For 1 hour, we saw almost nothing. No petrol stations. No warungs, no shops, no signs of much happening. Just corn fields - wide and very green - and the occasional glimpse of ocean, and traditional villages that appear and dissolve before you've had time to properly look at them.
We knew Sumba was remote and raw but only now we started understanding what that actually meant.
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We knew Sumba was remote and raw, but only now did we start to understand what that actually meant.
The Kodi Region: A Quick Introduction
The Kodi region sits at the western tip of Sumba and is one of the most traditional parts of Indonesia. Most of the local communities here follow Marapu, an animist belief system built around ancestral spirits — you'll see megalithic stone tombs at the centre of villages and tall-peaked clan houses that have looked the same for generations.
The landscape is savanna, not jungle: wide open, flat, golden, and dramatic. And the horses — the famous Sumba Sandalwood horse are everywhere, you will see locals riding them on the roads and on the beac.
Getting to know the local culture here takes a bit more time than in Bali. People are not used to foreigners in the same way, which is part of what makes it feel so untouched. The kids come out and wave as they almsot never see tourists (especially if you’re on a scooter). Knowing a few words in Indonesian helped as almost no English is spoken outside the resort.
Arya Sumba Kodi: The Stay
Choosing a place to stay in Sumba is not easy accommodation is limited, and if you've never been, picking an area feels like a gamble. Having been now, we made the right call with Arya.
THE DETAILS
Price: Rates start from EU100 per night /$$$
Amenities: Oceanfront pool, bamboo restaurant, horse riding, traditional Sumbanese villas, outdoor bathrooms
Why we love it: Raw, remote, and completely its own thing. Feels less like a hotel and more like somewhere you actually belonged for a while.
THE RESORT
Arya sits right on the coastline with villas inspired by traditional Sumbanese architecture - tall roofs, natural materials, and outdoor bathrooms where you shower under the stars.
The pool is huge with direct ocean views, the bamboo restaurant makes even breakfast feel like an occasion, and the kitchen does impressive things for somewhere this remote: fresh fish, local fruit, homemade pastries and ice cream.
The staff is genuinely warm - in just a few days it felt less like a hotel and more like somewhere you actually belonged for a while.
THE STANDOUTHorses roaming the grounds during breakfast — and the option to ride them down to the water.
I got on a horse for the first time in my life on my last day. It's called swimming with horses. I 100% recommend as it felt super comfortable and safe.
THE AREA + WHAT TO DO
1h15 from Tambolaka airport — Kodi region, West Sumba
Weekuri Lagoon - turquoise lagoon, one of those places you can't quite believe is real
Rattengaro and local Kodi villages
Wee Kacura waterfall and rice fields
Talasi Estate - Tambolaka
BOOK | Arya Sumba Kodi Resort
Inside Arya Sumba Kodi: A Conversation with General Manager Aisyah Lasmanawati
What I kept coming back to during my stay and even afterwards was one question: how does a place like this actually work? So I reached out to the General Manager to understand the work behind and the future of Arya.
Aisyah Lasmanawati is originally from Jakarta, has spent over two decades in Bali's hospitality world, and brings two decades of travel across Asia, East Africa and Europe to the way she thinks about service. She joined Arya two months before my visit - having already been to the property several times before saying yes.
I truly believe some people are simply wired for hospitality - and that travelling the way Aisyah has shapes an instinct that's genuinely hard to teach:
After years of travelling and working in Bali, what made you say yes to leading a property that is still developing in a remote area?
My move to Sumba came through the opportunity to be part of ARYA from its early phase, which I found both challenging and meaningful.
After spending years in more established destinations like Bali, what drew me to Sumba was exactly that - it is still developing.
There is a different kind of purpose here. You are not just operating a property, you are building something from the ground up, shaping both the guest experience and how the destination evolves.
What was your first impression of Sumba when you arrived, and how has that changed now that you're two months into running it?
My first impression of Sumba was how raw and untouched it felt, both beautiful and challenging. Two months in, that hasn't changed, but my appreciation has deepened. You begin to understand the rhythm of the place, the people, and what it really takes to operate here.
Weekuri Lagoon, just 15mins away from Arya Resort
Arya opened in June 2025 in a region that had essentially no international tourism before it. Do you think guests come to Sumba, or do they come to Arya - and Sumba is what they find when they arrive?
I think guests come for both - Sumba and ARYA. Increasingly, they come because they have heard about Sumba as a destination, and ARYA becomes part of that discovery. Sometimes we are the entry point, and sometimes we define their experience once they arrive.
Operating a resort at this level in such a remote location means solving problems that simply don't exist elsewhere. What has been the hardest thing to get right?
The biggest challenge is consistency - delivering a high level of service in a remote location where supply chains, infrastructure, and resources are limited. It requires significantly more planning, adaptability, and teamwork compared to more developed destinations.
This is also why I do regular rotations between Bali and Sumba, as our head office is based in Bali. It allows for better coordination and makes operations more effective.
Paint me a picture of a guest's perfect day at Arya - the full rhythm of it, morning to evening.
A perfect day at ARYA is slow and intentional: waking up to the ocean, enjoying a relaxed breakfast, exploring the surroundings or simply staying within the property, followed by the special sunset moments we have here. Evenings are calm, focusing on atmosphere and connection rather than activity.
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From my perspective, ARYA offers one of the best sunset points for our guests - personally, it is one of the most beautiful sunsets I've experienced.
In Bali, personalisation often means tailoring to a guest's known preferences.
In Sumba, guests may have no frame of reference for what's even possible here. How do you personalise an experience when the guest themselves doesn't know what to ask for?
Personalisation here is less about reacting to requests and more about anticipating needs. Since many guests arrive without a clear expectation, we guide their experience through storytelling, thoughtful suggestions, and small, meaningful touches.
What do guests consistently mention long after they leave - the thing that genuinely stays with them?
What guests consistently mention is the feeling - the calmness, authenticity, and connection to the place. It is less about a single feature and more about how the destination makes them feel.
Sumba is growing but is that growth happening on Sumba's own terms, or does it risk following a path we've already seen elsewhere? Do you think it can stay genuinely off the beaten track?
Growth is inevitable, but the key question is how it is managed. Ideally, it should happen on Sumba's own terms — slowly and thoughtfully. There is always a risk of following the path of more developed destinations, but there is also an opportunity to do it differently.
Sumba is not an easy island to visit and it does not try to be. But if you are looking for somewhere that feels genuinely different — somewhere that has not yet figured out how to perform itself for an audience — Arya Sumba Kodi is one of the best reasons to go.
1.5 months after my stay at Arya, I am still affected by this place!
But after reading Aisyah's answers, what struck me most is the weight of what she's building here. Running a resort in a place this remote is not just a logistical challenge - it's a responsibility.
And if it's done right, it's also an opportunity to offer something that rushed itineraries and packed schedules rarely leave room for: the chance to actually slow down and be somewhere.
Sumba feels far. But getting here is more straightforward than you'd think. A short flight from Bali and a scenic drive later, you can be watching the sunset from Arya's pool the same afternoon.
👉 If you're ready to book, you can check availability and rates for Arya Sumba Kodi HERE
Let me know if you plan a trip to Sumba Island! 🐎
