Nyuh Kuning: A Full Day in Ubud Without a Scooter
Nyuh Kuning is a small village right behind the Monkey Forest in Ubud, and it's the most walkable area I know in this part of Bali. There's no through traffic, kids play on the street, people walk and cycle, and you can easily spend a whole day there without a scooter. Many people visiting Ubud still don't know about it.
I've been living in Bali for the past 2.5 years and this is the area I keep coming back to when I want a slow afternoon, a walk and a dinner.
Here's where it is, why I love it, and exactly how I'd spend a full day there.
Where is Nyuh Kuning?
Nyuh Kuning is literally at the back of the Sacred Monkey Forest, just south of Ubud center. Pengosekan is right next to it on the east side. The name means "yellow coconut" in Balinese.
It's almost an enclosed neighbourhood. Basically. Nyuh Kuning has to be your final destination, otherwise you wouldn't pass through it. That's exactly why there's no traffic.
It's also a village of wood and stone carvers. Walking around, you'll notice stone statues in front of the family houses, and there's a small museum with the village's carving history (Museum Pendet on Jalan Nyuh Bojog).
How to get to Nyuh Kuning
👟 On foot:
If you are in Ubud’s center and you prefer to walk - the easiest way is via Monkey Forest shortcut. It’s a narrow street with scooter access only and literally passes via the Monkey forest.
Since 2024 it's open only to local scooters, but pedestrians can still pass, and it takes about 5 minutes to walk to Ubud center. If you don't use the shortcut, going via the main road is tricky - it's busy and not a great place for walking.
🛵 By scooter or taxi:
From Ubud center it takes about 10-15 minutes around by the main road. Grab and Gojek taxis can drop off inside the village and they're very easy to order.
If you stay in Nyuh Kuning, you don't need transport at all for this day. Everything below is within walking distance.
🎟️ 100k for adults/ weekdays (5,20€) or 120k / weekends (6,20€) ; 80k for children or 100k/ weekends
Why I love Nyuh Kuning:
It's not commercial. Way fewer tourists, mostly locals and some expats.
No traffic - you can park your scooter (or not have one at all) and walk to dinner, and it's still quiet
Everything is close - Yoga, cafés, local spas, a few stores, mini market, restaurants - all within walking distance.
It still feels like a village. There's a football field where locals and foreigners gather in the afternoon, and the local banjar (the community centre) where you can hear gamelan practice in the evening.
Here’s how I'd spend a full day in
Nyuh Kuning:
Morning.
1. Morning yoga at The In Movement (around 9am)
The In Movement is one of the newer yoga studios in Ubud. It's a beautiful space and they have a good variety of classes. It’s one of the studios I love practicing at - I have a few favourite classes and and I usually go around 9am, before it gets too hot.
They also have a recovery area with a sauna and salt pool, so you can also add that. After practice you can stay for a coconut or a coffee, as they have a restaurant on site. I’ve never had food there but their cappuccino with coconut mylk was very deliscious.
🎟️ A drop-in class is 165,000 IDR (€8.25)
You can book online in advance, but I usually just turn up.
2. Smoothie bowls at Blend Café
If you want a really colourful smoothie bowl, Blend is the place. I'm still not sure how they get those bright colours but they look perfect on a photo, delicious, too . If you've never had a smoothie bowl in Bali, start here.
3. See the monkeys - for free
Many people tell me they're afraid of monkeys, so they skip the Monkey Forest. Tbh, I'm one of those people. In Nyuh Kuning you can see monkeys without going in, because they roam freely on the street. You'll usually spot them at the end of Jalan Nyuh Bojog, near Roti Bohemia, a local bakery. I know they like stealing pastries from there. It's a lot of fun.
❗Monkey tips: keep food, sunglasses and anything shiny in a closed bag, don't feed them, and don't smile at them with your teeth showing — they can read it as aggression.
Lunchtime.
4. Lunch at Sri Annapurna
For lunch I'd go to Sri Annapurna. I've had their kitchari and samosas probably 50 times. The food is Ayurvedic, the prices are very good, and it's a small, laid-back, cosy place.
🧒 If you're with kids: go to Village Cafe instead. I've only been once, but the food was very good, and they have a restaurant plus a wooden playground with a slide. I recommend their avocado toast.
5. Massage at a local spa
There are a few Balinese-run spas in the area. Nothing fancy, but really good prices. You can get a full body massage or just a foot massage. It's a nice way to cool down in the hottest part of the day.
You'll see many local spas just walking down the streets.
💰Expect around 130,000–200,000 IDR for a one-hour massage.
Or about 80,000 IDR for a 30-minute foot massage.
Afternoon.
6. Afternoon coffee at Old Friends Coffee ☕
For an afternoon coffee, or just to buy coffee beans, go to Old Friends Coffee. The owner is from Bali and brings his family's coffee beans from Kintamani to the shop, and you can buy them there (they also grind them for you). There's also a community that likes gathering there, so it's an easy way to meet new people.
7. The football field (around 5pm)
This is where you really feel the neighbourhood. In the afternoon locals and expats gather here to play games, chill, chat and fly kites (a Balinese tradition). It's a very lively, relaxed atmosphere, and it's a good place to bring kids - it's safe for them to run around. Come around 5pm, when the temperature is best.
🪁 Kites are mainly a windy dry season thing, so if you visit in the rainy months you might not see them.
Evening.
8. Sunset drinks and dinner around the football field
The area around the football field is my favourite and I love coming here around 5-6pm. There are a few restaurants with outdoor seating where you can sit for sunset drinks. When you're ready for dinner, here are your options:
The Galle Club:
Sri Lankan & Coastal Indian cuisine. I love sitting outside here in the evening because you can hear the gamelan from the banjar right next to it. I’ve seen people sitting outside with a wine - so if you are a wine person - this is the perfect place.
🍽️ My favourites on the menu:
Hot Butter Halloumi, Fish Curry and the Pandan Brulee (you must have it, it’s so smooth and pandan is a typical flavour for asian cuisine).
2Bulan (modern Thai) :
2Bulan is a modern Thai restaurant, right next to the Galle Club, with an interior that totally transported me somewhere in Bangkok. They do khao soi, which is my favourite Thai dish (coconut curry with crispy noodles). For dessert, get the Mango sticky rice panna cotta - every bite is an experience!
Warung Wayan:
If you feel like Balinese food, the best place to have it is a warung, a family-owned restaurant serving local dishes. Warung Wayan is close to the corner of Jalan Nyuh Bulan and the football field. Try the nasi goreng and the curry soup.
9. Walk off dinner
Finish the day with another walk around the village. There's no traffic and it's cooler by then.
